Monday, April 14, 2008

How to Make a Fully Lined Bodice

Updated with more pictures.

1.Cut two of each piece that comprises the bodice, except for the facings. Ignore any facing pieces. One set of pieces will be cut from the main fabric, and the other from a lining fabric. It is always possible to line the fabric with the main fabric, but if your material is light/see-through, use something solid for lining.

2.Sew the bodice pieces together if there are princess seams or anything like that, and then sew together at the shoulder. Do the same with the lining. Press all seams flat as necessary.

3. Sew the underarm seams together on the bodice. Do the same with the lining. Press seams flat.

4. Right sides of the fabrics together, carefully pin the lining to the bodice at the neck line, and down the back or front, depending on where the bodice closes.

5. Sew the seam you just pinned, being careful to keep things smooth around the neck curve.

6. Clip the tightest parts of the curve with traingular notches so that the seam will turn right side out and lay flat.

7. Clip the corner so that there's not a bunch of fabric bunched up when you turn it.

8. Turn the seam right side out and press.

9. At this point you can either topstitch around the seam you just pressed, or just leave it, or stitch the seam allowance to the back by opening things up again, sewing near the seam you just put in and then ironing it all back down. Don't do this without first pressing, though.

10. Press it.

11. Go to your armholes and either set a sleeve in, and then zigzag around the raw edges, or fold the lining and the outer bodice towards each other, pin like crazy and then do a little seam near the edge to hide the raw edges. On this dress, the cap sleeve only encompasses part of the arm hole, so you can see how I sewed it onto the outer fabric, and whipstiched the lining in place where the sleeve is set in, and did the fold-together and stitch thing at the bottom half of the armhole. Whipstitching the lining only works because the sleeve itself is lined and the stitches therefore don't show on the outside.

12. When you sew the skirt on, only sew it to the outer fabric. Then fold the lining up and hand stitch in place for a very neat finish on the inside of the garment. With the exception of the sleeves, there should be no raw edges showing at all. If the skirt is lined, put the selvages of the lining facing the selvages of the outer skirt and it's very nice on the inside.

This is good to do if the bodice overlaps for button holes, or a zipper can be set into the back of the garment. (I prefer to sew a hidden zipper in by hand to the liner.)


Paulette and Jack said...

Hello Alana,

Clicked on my healthy living and yours was the first to pop up. What do you mean by "Orthodox"? Greek or Russian? What a great idea for blogging. I haven't sewn anything in years! Seems like a useful blog to have.

Paulette and Jack said...

Hello Alana,
New to the blog world : ). Clicked on my "healthy living" interest and yours was the first profile to pop up. What do you mean by "Orthodox" Christianity? Greek or Russian? I thought your blog was great. Seems like a really great idea to blog something so useful. I haven't sewn anything in years. How great to publish such a practical post.

Alana said...

Hi, thanks for stopping by. Orthodox: Greek, Russian, Armenian, Romanian, Georgian, Antiochian etc....all the Orthodox are in one Communion. My jurisdiction happens to be the Orthodox Church in America (the OCA is of Russian descent and received her autocephaly "self rule" in 1970-too soon, but by necessity- when Russia was under the Communist yoke.)

Amy said...

Thanks Alana! You make it look sew easy...I am pretty new at sewing, having just completed my first jumper (well, minus the hem.) I had to understitch the you ever understitch the lining to the bodice? And, does a lining like that make facings unnecessary? (I think I finally understand facings after my mother-in-law patiently explained them to me for the umpteenth time).

Alana said...

Yes, a lining makes a facing unnecessary. Think of a lining as a facing that is the same size and shape as the entire bodice. At the neckline edge it serves the same function, but it won't come popping out at odd times the way a facing might.

Laura said...

Wow...that's amazing. I don't know how to sew...the kids are always asking me to crochet costumes for them...

Joanne said...

I am going to line a vintage (50's) dress pattern. I figured out how to do the skirt but the bodice is a puzzle. The front is one piece that includes the sleeves, left side zipper, the back is two pieces and each piece has half a sleeve. Any ideas?

Alana said...

Are you having trouble figuring out the shape of the pieces, or what order to sew things together in?

For the shape of the pieces, all I can tell you to do is use a seam ripper and gently take the bodice apart, use those pieces as a pattern for your lining, and then sew it back together.

If it's a matter of putting things together in the right order for the lining to work, it sounds to me like you could sew the shoulders together, and one side, then put it inside out against your bodice and sew around the neck line. Then turning the edges of each layer under install the zipper between them...perhaps. It is difficult to describe, or to picture based on your description.

Hope this helps a little bit...

queenvickitoria said...

Awesome tutorial! I don't have a serger so I normally try to do all French Seams because I haven't had much luck with zig-zagging. I was wondering if there was a way to fully line a bodice like you have done above, but for one with sleeves?? The armscycle is always my downfall. I never know how to finish the edge so it looks nice and doesn't fray. I've tried bias tape, zig zagging, and turnning a hem, but if I could just line it somehow(without having to hand-sew ick!), that would be awesome! Any tips or tricks?